Small clasp purses come in a variety of patter sizes and shapes. Some are flat and others have a wider fabric (gusset) insert at the base and side. Some gussets go all the way up to the hinge, while others may be shorter and create a pear shape purse (as this one does).
I finished this short gusset purse recently, a project my friends Pam and Francis began with me. We are each creating our own versions. Thought you might like to see how this purse was created. The front and gusset pieces were reinforced with a piece of medium weight fusible interfacing. The front patter piece was traced on to the front fabric..and hooped to create the silk ribbon design you see in the above photo. All of your embroidery work (front and/or back) should be completed before you begin to assemble the purse. After you have done the stitching...cut out the purse shapes following your drawn (or baste stitching) outline guide for the shape of the front/back pattern pieces.
First, a bit of an apology...as I didn't think about doing the tutorial until I was already "creating" the purse...so this is not a very good beginning photo. The top pieces are the fronts/backs of the lining and the outside back of the purse. The bottom piece is the pattern for the gusset piece (which had already been sewn in by the time I thought about needing this START photo).
Above, the gusset is pinned to the front of the outside front piece, and sewn in place. Begin pinning at the center of the gusset...matching that to the center bottom of the purse front. Repeat for the purse lining pieces as well (shown on the right side in blue).
Clip the curves to allow the seam to spread a bit...do not cut through the sewing however. Clip about every 1/4 to 1/2 inches on the curved corner areas of the gusset seam.
Now, the same will be repeated on the opposite side...which is a bit more cumbersome. Begin by marking the center bottom point of the purse backs and of the gusset (opposite side to the one just sewn).
Pin all the way around. Sew the seam and clip the curves (just as you did with the first side).
You now have finished the seams of the gusset for the purse and the purse lining.
Now, its time to create the purse by combining the lining and the outside purse layers together. Turn the lining INSIDE facing Out. Insert the purse into the lining, matching the top seams. (The front and back pieces are identical...so it is not important to worry over front/back unless you choose to add a pocket to the lining, or for some reason your hinge is not the same on the front as the back shape.) Pin all the way around this top area.
You will need to leave an opening to turn the purse (see left side of above photo); SO...begin your stitching near a top corner...continue to the gusset top the PIVOT your machine needle to sew up the other side...across the top...and down (repeat) until you have reached the open area for turning. Backstitch at the beginning and end of this line of stitching. Clip the curves.
Here is a difficult part...reach inside (through the hole you just left open) and pull the OUTER bag out, then push the INNER bag down inside this outer bag. Push and shift and poke until the seams are all pushed as far OUT as possible which will then resemble a bag once again...this time the lining is inside the outside purse shape.
Turn under the seam allowance for the OPEN area at the top of the purse and pin. Stitch by machine close to the edge. This stitching will not be seen when the purse is finished. Next, the purse will be attached to the hinge mechanism.
You can use thread, perle cotton, etc to attach your hinge to the purse...match the color of thread to your fabric if you do this. Or you can using clear filament (fishing line) which is what I'm going to use here. This is a 6lb test weight line. Begin by tying a knot in your thread and needle up through the purse from the lining side at the TOP CENTER point through the center top hole in the clasp. Then needle down into the next hole (on either side) and continue this needle-up/needle-down in subsequent holes until you reach the edge of the clasp (hinge area) as shown in the above photo. This cause a series of RUNNING Stitches to form along the hinge...and through the outer/lining fabrics. Work to keep the purse fabrics pushed into the hinge a you stitch.
Now, reverse and stitch in the same manner until you reach the center point of the hinge again. This covers 1/4th of the hinge in secure stitches. Repeat this for the opposite side of this same hinge side. End again at the center.
OPTIONAL: Repeat this process for decoration purposes...by adding beads as you repeat the stitching. Work your needle back through previous holes or previous beads to completely fill the space with beads.
End your thread by taking a couple of tiny slip stitches into the hinge area of fabric, and knot off the thread. Repeat the process of attaching the hinge on the opposite side of the hinge in the same manner at for this first side.
You can further decorate your purse by adding beads along the seam line and creating a little beaded Fob for the purse chain fastener loop on the hinge (if one is on your hinge).
Hope you will be inspired to create your own hinge purse soon!
